Gujarat state in India has developed its own distinctive embroidery
styles, techniques, and designs. The inspiration often comes from Hindu
religion and the local flora and fauna it is the case with the Gujarati embroidery.
Here is a look at embroidery of Gujarat and Hindu influence.
Gujarat is well known for its rich embroidery patterns. Kutch,
Saurashtra, and other parts of Gujarat have evolved distinctive styles.
Children wear embroidered costumes from early life – caps,
kurtis and trousers.
Cholis – blouses of women, odhanis – skirts and veils,
shawls and leather shoes are delicately and intricately embroidered.
The Kathis of Kathiawar, the Rabaris and the Lohanas of
Banni have evolved their individual styles.
Abhala embroidery, consisting of small pieces of mirrors, is
common to all articles of Gujarat embroidery.
Preference for a dark maroon color background is a characteristic
of the Rabari embroidery, which is often combined with appliqué work.
The Jatas and the Mutuwas from the Banni area use fine
handspun cotton as base, and embroider it with red, white, golden-yellow, blue
and black silk threads.
The Mahajani embroidery in Bhavnagar, Saurashtra is renowned
for its fine satin shimmering effect, obtained by means of satin and
herringbone stitches.
The chain-stitch is the most common, often combined with
stem, herringbone, button hole, darning, satin and other stitches.
Saurashatra and Kutch are also known for bead embroidery.
Cradles, coverlets, hangings, pelmets, purses, etc., are
embroidered with multi-hued beads.
The use of Sindhi taropa (interlacing stitches) shows the
ingenuity of Gujarati women embroiderers.
Bootis and dots are the commonest pattern.
Aribharat embroidery common to Kutch is done by using Ari –
a hook and silk threads; kanbhi-bharat is done with cotton threads by using
darning and herringbone stitches; moch-bharat exemplifies leather embroidery
done by cobblers.
Earlier, local satin gaffi and satin silk were use in lieu
of leather.
Apart from personal garments, Gujarati homes too are
decorated with embroidered toranas (festoons) hung on the main entrance; wall
hangings, known as sthapana; caklas (square fabrics for covering furniture);
candravas (rectangular wall hangings).
Local flora and fauna feature prominently in Gujarat
embroidery as well.
Notes Taken from - Encyclopedia of
Hinduism Volume IV – India Heritage Research Foundation – Page no 34.